Last September we bought him a used 9ft surfboard for his birthday. He was already back at Bates so I posed the surfboard against an ivy covered fence and sent him a photo of it. He never even saw it until May and at the time it seemed like a non present as he couldn't open it and enjoy it. Delayed gratification isn't such a bad thing in the end. He has used it constantly this summer. He surfed for 6 hours yesterday and is back at it this morning.
Surfing is hard work. It requires Zen like patience, incredible physical strength, perfect timing and skill.
I watch as he watches for a new set of waves to come in. The waves are getting bigger and bigger and I hear the occasional hoop and holler; similar those I hear when we are tree skiing. Everyone should have such a passion in life.
Pete just came in commenting on " the absolutely glorious weather " and said " I feel like a real surfer!" Summer 2010 has been a perfect summer for all of us. The days have been like a string of pearls; sunny, hot and the ocean has been unusually warm. I know this is probably the last summer we will have with both boys here for the whole summer. How sweet it's been!